Ah, denim care. One of the most versatile materials in fashion, it's been a wardrobe staple for generations; clothing for everyone from trigger happy cowboys to the sort of actors and artists that populate Instagram moodboards. Whether it's a jacket or a pair of jeans, the hard-wearing material has been with us through thick and thin, soaking up every single scuff and coffee stain, and taking a bit of a beating on a daily basis. That's why good maintenance is essential.
From the intricacies of different washes and the fabric's history, through to the more practical stuff on how to soften, clean, and store yours, GQ's definitive denim care guide covers everything that you need to know. With our hacks, your clothes will last much longer, feel more comfortable, and smell less. You (and your friends) will thank us later.
What is denim made from, and how is it made?
Essentially, denim is a durable cotton twill textile, and it's constructed as the horizontal weft threads pass under two or more vertical warp threads. That's how the distinctive diagonal ribbing is made.
Denim originated in southern France, specifically in the old city of Nîmes. Sorry USA, but you're not taking that one. Back then, weavers wanted to imitate corduroy trousers that were becoming increasingly popular across the border in Italy, but serendipitously, they ended up inventing denim instead. Today's all-cotton denim was first created in England and later perfected in American mills by Levi Strauss, who eventually brought denim to the masses in 1873 (Happy 150th birthday!).
Selvedge denim vs. raw denim
Before the '50s, denim was made on shuttle looms producing tightly woven strips of heavy fabric, and the edges were finished with bands running down each side. Denim created using this method ended up having something called a “self-edge” (hence the portmanteau of selvedge) which prevents the fraying and curling that denim made on the cheaper looms tends to experience.
While most selvedge denim tends to be raw, there is no connection between the two terms. Raw simply means the denim has not been pre-washed. If you're still not sure on the difference between selvedge and raw, make sure you check out our guide on the subject.
How to get rid of that new denim smell
Because of the formaldehyde that's applied to your denim in the factory (wonderful!), they will have a noxious smell wafting from them. If you want to get rid of the new denim stench, follow the standard wash procedure outlined in the wash section below, but instead of using a washing machine, add baking powder to a tub of warm water and let the denim soak. Baking powder acts as a natural absorbent of chemical smells, while retaining the lush colour of the denim wash.
Denim washes explained
Dark Wash: Also known as Rinse Wash, this washing process makes the raw denim more wearable. Residual dye is removed from the jean to help stop the colour running and makes the denim feel significantly softer, while maintaining a clean appearance.
Mid Wash: The wash process continues for longer, removing more of the original indigo dye, and therefore leaving the fabric a lighter, mid-level blue.
Light Wash: You guessed it, a longer process still than the mid wash, resulting in an even lighter and softer denim.
Acid Wash: Also know as Snow Wash, acid wash denim is achieved by soaking pumice stones in chlorine and adding them to the wash process.
How to soften new denim
Wearing new raw denim can be uncomfortable and time consuming, but just like breaking in a pair of new formal shoes or Chelsea boots, there are few shortcuts that you can follow to make things a little easier. First of all, you can add some add a dash of fabric softener to a lukewarm tub or washing machine. Wash inside-out and dry it on the lowest heat. Another cool method is throwing a couple of tennis balls in your dryer. What this does is it basically massages your denim to make it a lot more flexible.
How to shrink new denim
With raw denim, always check if the fabric has already been pre-shrunk or "sanforized" (essentially, a process named after the dude who invented it in the '30s, Sanford Lockwood Cluett). If not, they will shrink by roughly two inches in length and around the waist during the first wash.
If your denim is “un-sanforized” you need to soak them pre-wear. Fill the bath with two to three inches of hot water (the hotter the water, the more the dye will run). Turn the denim inside-out and lay it flat in the water with something heavy weighing them down for around two hours. When you eventually take them out, dry them upside down to reduce shrinkage.
How to clean denim
You might not believe this, but the key to denim care is to… rarely wash them. In fact, we recommend that you only wash them twice a year only if necessary. That said, there are some stains that a simple airing out will not solve, and here’s how to remove them:
Turn your denim inside-out and wash them in lukewarm water with an enzyme-free denim detergent. If you don't have a washing machine, fill your bath with a few centimetres of lukewarm water, then lay the inside-out denim flat so the water covers them and let them soak for about 45 minutes. When they're clean, take them out, and dry them upside down to reduce shrinkage.
How to store your denim
While you might just stuff your denim into a drawer or fold them into little piles in the corner of your wardrobe, the best way to store it is actually to hang it. According to Kevin Carrigan, Global Creative Director of Calvin Klein Jeans: "First, I always hang my denim by the back belt loop… Sometimes I'll hang five pairs of jeans off the same coat hanger to let them air and give them that lived-in look."
Which jeans best suit which body shape?
If you're on the shorter side, we would recommend avoiding anything too skinny as this will make you look shorter than you actually are are. Likewise, you're best keeping away from baggy styles as well. A straight-cut jean would do the trick. Roll up your jeans to the desired length, take them to a tailor and get them cut to fit or simply cut your jeans off at the bottom for an on-trend frayed vibe.
On the other hand, if you're tall you can get away with more. Skinny styles should only be attempted by, well, really skinny guys. We would recommend something tapered or something slightly baggier if you're feeling brave.
Taking good care of your denim means that they'll last a lot longer, and you probably won't have to buy more for quite some time. So, not only will your wallet be pretty happy, the environment will be too!
