Archive for René Desmaison
très grandes Jorasses!
Posted in Mountains, pictures with tags Charles Dubouloz, French Alps, Grandes Jorasses, Instagram, Mont Blanc, north faces, René Desmaison, Rolling Stones, solo climbing, winter climb on February 19, 2022 by xi'an
Les Grandes Jorasses, from 342 to 2 hours
Posted in Mountains with tags Alps, Anubis, Cassin, Dani Arnold, Eiger, Grandes Jorasses, Matterhorn, north faces, René Desmaison, speed climbing, video on September 7, 2018 by xi'an
Last month Dani Arnold, a Swiss climber, climbed the classic Cassin route of Les Grandes Jorasses [in my dreams!] in two hours (and obviously completely free-solo, with no protection whatsoever). This route was opened by Cassin, Esposito and Tizzoni, 1938, is part of the three great north walls of the Alps, with Eiger and Matterhorn, and is graded TD+/ED1, IV, 5c/6a, A1, for a vertical climb of 1200m. It is an extremely challenging and engaged climb, with almost no possibility to escape once started, and climbing parties often take more than a day to complete the climb. On his way up, Arnold passed nine groups of climbers. Here is another video of his in Scotland, when repeating for the first time Anubis, a mixed climbing route on Ben Nevis. (The title of the post is relating to Desmaison’s 342 heures dans les Grandes Jorasses.)
Xi'an's Og 