Archive for Soufrière

Fuji [and back]

Posted in Mountains, Running, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , , on September 19, 2025 by xi'an

Following my enjoying a lease of Hoka shoes during a half-marathon last year, with some noticeable improvement during the race but a highly specialised design preventing its use in other circumstances, I took again advantage of a running brand offer for free trial of one of their shows. Indeed, Asics offers a 90 day trial period on their gear, provided a registration, and I tested their (top model) MetaFuji Trail shoes during our trip to Guadeloupe, both on coastal paths and hiking trails. They proved rather light, well-fitted to my feet, pretty (with a picture of Fuji-san!) and sturdy enough for a month of daily runs (with no noticeable wear), but not particularly reactive on road (where was the carbon plate!) and both unstable and slippery on rocky trails as those around Basse-Terre. In fact, I ended up the vacations with a sharp return of my hamstring pain, possibly connected with relying on that shoe the whole time (and possibly due to heavy volumes since May!) I thus cleaned the pair and sent it back when I returned home (under the 90 day limit)…

a journal of the sargaço year (cont’d)

Posted in Books, Kids, Mountains, pictures, Travel, Wines with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on September 9, 2025 by xi'an

This was my first visit to Guadeloupe and I found the Eastern Island, Basse-Terre or Karukera in Carib, definitely beautiful and quite diverse in its fauna, with different types of forests, from the mangroves to the rain forests, to the altitude or cloud forest, almost permanently inside a cloud of its own making!

On the only time I went snorkelling (as opposed to daily swims at dawn!), I also saw corals, predictably in poor state, along tropical fish and tortoises, incl. a barracuda (if not at the spot where another tourist got bitten!). And, alas, plenty of sargassum, annoying when swimming and a plague when decomposing on the beaches and storage locations since they emit H²S gases in large quantities. I found online that companies like Suez are turning them into energy and fertiliser but the huge unpredictability of their arrival make this recycling unsustainable at an industrial scale.

We also visited banana and cocoa plantations, always amazed by the huge variety of banana genera and its multiple benefits (and adapting to their local availability by having breakfasts of bananas and mangoes, since preserving bread proved impossible). Unfortunately, I could not find whole cocoa pods for sale on local markets and brought home a bag of loose beans I could only turn into a cocoa stick (rather than the intended paste) as it dried out very quickly. As a 100% chocolate substitute, it is enjoyable in small quantities! (I also brought huge avocados and passion fruits, after securing an export certificate!, necessary despite moving from a French territory to another French territory. While bringing back mangoes was prohibited.) Among the many friendly encounters, special thanks to the lady from Les Saintes who gave me eggs from her chicken when the local grocery would only sell them by crates of 30 eggs. And to the passer-by who helped me out of a ditch by sitting on my rental front hood!

A last point about this trip is that this is the first place in France I visit where tap water is of disputable quality (as confirmed by many locals, incl. our daughter and our host). As a result, I ended up buying more water bottles over three weeks than in the past twenty years! (Boiling water then cooling it was not even sufficient for my own consumption, given the rental conditions, as I was producing less than two liters a day.) The reason for this uncertainty is the poor state of the water pipes and the potential contamination by uncontrolled water sources in the event of heavy rain, at least in our neighbourhood…

falls [jatp]

Posted in Kids, Mountains, pictures, Running, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on September 6, 2025 by xi'an





a journal of the sargaço year

Posted in Books, Kids, Mountains, pictures, Travel, Wines with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on September 5, 2025 by xi'an

Read my pile of vacation books before the vacations were over! Apart from Choice, reviewed in a separate post, they were quite a disapointment. A Day of Fallen Night by Samantha Shannon (also bought in Seattle last year) is a sequel to the Priory of the Orange Tree that I read by Lac Saint-Jean, Québec (that I enjoyed enough to buy this one). A very poor sequel then, where I could find but little appeal in the story. There are too many similarities with the literature, plus inspiration from Earth cultures like the Vikings’ and Japan. The actions and reasonings of the main characters are at times disputable, incl. what they consider as their duties to the Realm or to their religion (eg. duty pregnancies). The hugely predictable romantic developments are taking for ever, while the overall scenario is weak and unrealistic (even conditional on the local universe). As in other poor fantasy novels, the characters travel huge distances at times of upheavals of a cosmic scale, can indulge in fancy meals while the society is collapsing, uncover super-powers at times of need, and meet at the perfect moment to save the day (of fallen night!). In addition, the cosmogony of the local universe is poorly constructed, with different creeds conflicting. A single redeeming if idiosyncratic factor is the skills of Dumai in ice climbing and mountaineering, where she lost a few fingers… The second book was a trilogy, La Dame de Reykjavik (the Hulda series) by Ragnar Jonasson, that I bought because of high praises, a fascination for Iceland and a well-made book. Quite disappointing, with a poor and unrealistic scenario, and unbelievable attitude of a senior inspector. The hints are heavy, the flashbacks unceasing, and the constant whining of the main character unbearable. No to mention the heavy infodumps about Iceland’s landscape and history. Another novel surfing (or attempting to) the Icelandic noir fad. The second and third novels are even worse, recycling the same story by moving backward and further backward in time. Hard to believe they received so many awards! The last one is Petites boîtes by Ogawa Yoko (小箱) whose earlier work I also enjoyed, but this one is a surrealist non-story about an alternative Japan where all kids died and parents honour them by maintaining memory boxes à la Joseph Cornell (who also inspired a character within Gibbson’s Neuromancer). The short book consists of the description of the fantastic life of the narrator’s small town, with no plot whatsoever. And no lasting impression.

Made a purée from one breadfruit, which grows extensively in Guadeloupe. A nice taste close to potatoes with a nuttier flavour. Also made lots of (local) tuna ceviche, ideal for cold meals, and mango purées, taking advantage of the mango tree in the garden of my daughter’s rental. Even brought back a frozen jar of the purée (along with the massive avocados that grow on the island and a few of the local bananas). Tasted a fantastic cassava crêpe, much crunchier than the buckwheat and tef galettes I am used to. (Meanwhile my attempt at growing buckwheat at home failed for the second time, despite constant irrigation…) And a bokit, a local taco with fried bread that is definitely not to be tried more than once for its fat and salt contents, if predictably enjoyable for the same reasons! And many versions of accras.

 

cloud commuting [jatp]

Posted in Kids, Mountains, pictures, Running, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , on September 4, 2025 by xi'an